Anycubic Mega S - Revision history

Leo: /* Text to Gcode */

2023-04-11T00:01:35Z

Text to Gcode

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:01, 11 April 2023
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	To convert the hershey text into gcode, select the converted text, then click <code>Extensions -> Generate Pen (Servo) Gcode Tool...</code>. Ensure the tool has the following settings set:		To convert the hershey text into gcode, select the converted text, then click <code>Extensions -> Generate Pen (Servo) Gcode Tool...</code>. Ensure the tool has the following settings set:

	* Pen (Servo) Up Command: <code>G0 ~~Z15~~ F6000</code>		* Pen (Servo) Up Command: <code>G0 Z9 F6000</code>
	* Pen (Servo) Down Command: <code>G0 Z7 F6000</code>		* Pen (Servo) Down Command: <code>G0 Z2 F6000</code>
	* Travel Speed: <code>5000</code>		* Travel Speed: <code>5000</code>
	* Drawing Speed: <code>3000</code>		* Drawing Speed: <code>3000</code>
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	* Servo Down Angle S#: 0		* Servo Down Angle S#: 0
	* Delay: <code>0.0</code>		* Delay: <code>0.0</code>
			Note: The up position at 9mm may be higher than necessary. It may be possible to use a smaller value.

	Review the exported Gcode. You may also want to prepend and append the following chunks of Gcode:		Review the exported Gcode. You may also want to prepend and append the following chunks of Gcode:
	{{Highlight		{{Highlight
	\| code = G21 ; work in metric		\| code = G21 ; work in metric
	G28 ~~X Y~~ F3000 ; reset X / Y		G28 X0 Y0 F3000 ; reset X / Y
	G28 Z F1000 ; reset Z		G28 Z0 F1000 ; reset Z
	G90 ; absolute		G90 ; absolute
	G92 ~~Y-75~~ ; set to Y 75mm offset, as our pen holder is off-centered from the tool		G92 Y55 ; set to Y 75mm offset, as our pen holder is off-centered from the tool
	M211 S0 ; disable software endstops, we may need to run past the normal work area		; M211 S0 ; disable software endstops, we may need to run past the normal work area
	G0 ~~Z15~~ F6000 ; bring tool up		G0 Z10 F6000 ; bring tool up
	\| lang = gcode		\| lang = gcode
	}}		}}
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	{{Highlight		{{Highlight
	\| code = M211 S1 ; Re-enable software endstops		\| code = M211 S1 ; Re-enable software endstops
	G0 ~~Z40~~ F6000 ; lift pen to 40 to ease removal of work		G0 Z100 F6000 ; lift pen to 40 to ease removal of work
	G28 X0 ; Move out of the way		G28 X0 ; Move out of the way
	G1 Y180 F2000		G1 Y180 F2000

Leo: /* Use as a pen plotter */

2023-03-26T20:46:27Z

Use as a pen plotter

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:46, 26 March 2023
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	=== Use as a pen plotter ===		=== Use as a pen plotter ===
	I use the pen holder from this design by zhwang168 at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4799274. Rather than using his pen refill enclosure and plastic spring, I was able to use an existing Pilot G2 pen almost as-is by moving the internal spring to the end of the ink tube and pushing against the top of the pen. This allows the pen nib to have some leeway in its movement. You can replace the spring with other springs to lower the downward pressure on the nib (I had good results with 2 keyboard switch springs interleaved together).

			==== Setup ====
			I use the pen holder from this design by zhwang168 at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4799274. Rather than using his pen refill enclosure and 3D printed plastic spring, I was able to use an existing Pilot G2 pen almost as-is but modified such that the internal spring is placed between the ink tube and the top of the pen. This allows the pen nib to have some leeway in its movement similar to what zhwang168's printed part can do. I found the original spring to be a little too stiff, so I replaced them with two mechanical keyboard switch springs interleaved together.

			Securing the printed page to the print bed was another tricky part. I wanted to have some way to quickly load/unload a page from the printer and didn't want to use binder clips or tape. The 3D print bed at 21cm x 21cm is also a little too short for a normal letter page. My work-around is to use an old clipboard which I can attach to the print bed with magnets. The benefit with this is that I can remove the clipboard easily if I wanted to print 3d objects later on without having to mess with the bed again and that pages can be added/removed through the clipboard clip. Because the bed height is now higher with the addition of the clipboard, I added two identical magnets on top of the Z axis limit switch to compensate to avoid the extruder from crashing into the clipboard surface.

			Calibration should be done by zeroing the XYZ axis. The magnets on the Z axis limit switch will cause the head to be above the printer bed by the diameter of the magnets. Move the head via Gcode to somewhere on the page and determine an appropriate Z value for the pen in both down and up states. Adjust the pen clip as required. You want the pen to be pressing half way up the spring in the down state and fully off the page in the up state. Depending on the spring in the pen, there could be up to 5mm in leeway. Using a harder spring with smaller tolerances might be useful to minimize Z axis movements to help speed up printing.

			==== Text to Gcode ====
	To convert text into gcode, use Inkscape 0.92 and the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YO8-8guaS3pRbeQzhNKmj rW7ZZgCtkr/view?usp=sharing 4xiDraw & KM laser extensions]. The extensions only work with Inkscape 0.92. Place the contents of the extensions into the Inkscape extensions directory under the Inkscape program directory at <code>$InkscapeProgramDir/share/extensions</code>, you will need to overwrite any existing files.		To convert text into gcode, use Inkscape 0.92 and the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YO8-8guaS3pRbeQzhNKmj rW7ZZgCtkr/view?usp=sharing 4xiDraw & KM laser extensions]. The extensions only work with Inkscape 0.92. Place the contents of the extensions into the Inkscape extensions directory under the Inkscape program directory at <code>$InkscapeProgramDir/share/extensions</code>, you will need to overwrite any existing files.

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	* Pen (Servo) Up Command: <code>G0 Z15 F6000</code>		* Pen (Servo) Up Command: <code>G0 Z15 F6000</code>
	* Pen (Servo) Down Command: <code>G0 ~~Z13~~ F6000</code>		* Pen (Servo) Down Command: <code>G0 Z7 F6000</code>
	* Travel Speed: <code>5000</code>		* Travel Speed: <code>5000</code>
	* Drawing Speed: <code>3000</code>		* Drawing Speed: <code>3000</code>
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	At the end, add:		At the end, add:
	{{Highlight		{{Highlight
	\| code = G0 ~~Z25~~ F6000 ; lift pen ~~higher~~ to ease removal of work		\| code = M211 S1 ; Re-enable software endstops
			G0 Z40 F6000 ; lift pen to 40 to ease removal of work
	G28 X0 ; Move out of the way		G28 X0 ; Move out of the way
	G1 Y180 F2000		G1 Y180 F2000
	M84 ; steppers off		M84 ; steppers off
	~~G90~~
	M300 P300 S4000 ; play tone		M300 P300 S4000 ; play tone
	\| lang = gcode		\| lang = gcode

Leo at 18:49, 26 March 2023

2023-03-26T18:49:14Z

@@ Line 148: / Line 148: @@
 #If using a different length nozzle, you will need to adjust the 2 screws on either ends of the extruder arm so that the nozzle trips the Z axis end stop switch before the nozzle touches the build plate. Not doing this could cause the nozzle to ram into the build plate.
 #Relevel everything again.
 ==See Also==

Leo at 03:41, 16 August 2021

2021-08-16T03:41:47Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:41, 16 August 2021
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	[[File:3D Printer nozzle types.png\|alt=3D Printer nozzle types\|thumb\|201x201px\|3D printer nozzle types. Right one is the type suitable for the Anycubic]]		[[File:3D Printer nozzle types.png\|alt=3D Printer nozzle types\|thumb\|201x201px\|3D printer nozzle types. Right one is the type suitable for the Anycubic]]

	=== Changing nozzle size ===		===Changing nozzle size===

	==== A quick note on nozzle types ====		====A quick note on nozzle types====
	Pictured on the right are the two types of 3D printer nozzles that are commonly available. The Anycubic Mega uses the type on the right hand side, which has a shallower nozzle with a slightly longer thread. While both types uses the same M6 threads, because of the slight difference in thread length, swapping one for the other will require adjusting the heat break to avoid material seeping out of the heater block.		Pictured on the right are the two types of 3D printer nozzles that are commonly available. The Anycubic Mega uses the type on the right hand side, which has a shallower nozzle with a slightly longer thread. While both types uses the same M6 threads, because of the slight difference in thread length, swapping one for the other will require adjusting the heat break to avoid material seeping out of the heater block.

	Because I had bought the cheapest nozzles without realizing there were different types of nozzles, I ended up with the 'wrong' type for the Anycubic. To use the nozzles properly, I had to tighten the heating block into the heat break by 1.25 turns. This then allowed the nozzle to tighten into the heating block completely.		Because I had bought the cheapest nozzles without realizing there were different types of nozzles, I ended up with the 'wrong' type for the Anycubic. To use the nozzles properly, I had to tighten the heating block into the heat break by 1.25 turns. This then allowed the nozzle to tighten into the heating block completely.

	==== How to change the nozzle ====		====How to change the nozzle====

	# Heat the hot end to ~40-50C hotter than your print temperature. I did 260C.		#Heat the hot end to ~40-50C hotter than your print temperature. I did 260C.
	# Remove the nozzle. This should come out relatively easily. Use pliers to hold on to the heating block to prevent it from moving if required.		#Remove the nozzle. This should come out relatively easily. Use pliers to hold on to the heating block to prevent it from moving if required.
	# Replace with the new nozzle. If it's a different type of nozzle, make sure that the nozzle starts to tighten before the nozzle head reaches the heating block. This ensures that there's a good connection between the heat break and the nozzle. If the nozzle is threaded completely into the heating block, you may need to adjust the heat break further in to compensate. Tighten the nozzle lightly; don't strip the threads.		#Replace with the new nozzle. If it's a different type of nozzle, make sure that the nozzle starts to tighten before the nozzle head reaches the heating block. This ensures that there's a good connection between the heat break and the nozzle. If the nozzle is threaded completely into the heating block, you may need to adjust the heat break further in to compensate. Tighten the nozzle lightly; don't strip the threads.
	# If using a different length nozzle, you will need to adjust the 2 screws on either ends of the extruder arm so that the nozzle trips the Z axis switch before the nozzle touches the build plate. Not doing this could cause the nozzle to ram into the build plate.		#If using a different length nozzle, you will need to adjust the 2 screws on either ends of the extruder arm so that the nozzle trips the Z axis end stop switch before the nozzle touches the build plate. Not doing this could cause the nozzle to ram into the build plate.
	# Relevel everything again.		#Relevel everything again.

	==See Also==		==See Also==

Leo at 00:34, 14 August 2021

2021-08-14T00:34:20Z

@@ Line 81: / Line 81: @@
 ====Unnecessary Travels along Inner Wall====
-When trying to print a curved wall that is 3 layers thick (1.2mm thick with 0.4mm nozzle), the middle inner wall is broken up into multiple sections by Cura and the nozzle prints each section backwards, causing the nozzle to jutter backwards instead of printing the inner wall as a single smooth line. This seems to be an issue when a curved section is exactly a multiple of the nozzle width and increasing the wall thickness from 1.2mm to 1.3mm seems to fix this issue.
+When trying to print a curved wall that is 3 layers thick (1.2mm thick with 0.4mm nozzle), the middle inner wall is broken up into multiple sections by Cura and the nozzle prints each section backwards, causing the nozzle to judder backwards instead of printing the inner wall as a single smooth line. This seems to be an issue when a curved section is exactly a multiple of the nozzle width and increasing the wall thickness from 1.2mm to 1.3mm seems to fix this issue.
 However, Cura still has unnecessary travel around the perimeter of the initial inner wall. This was rectified by setting the Minimum Wall Flow (under Shell) to 30%. This forces Cura to not travel through printed walls since it must be extruding at 30% flow rate. It still might travel for some sections as it tries to start the next seam in another corner which can be fixed by setting the Z Seam Alignment (Shell) to 'Shortest'.
@@ Line 132: / Line 132: @@
 If you intend to update the firmware to use the TMC module, you can leave the wiring as-is. Otherwise, you will need to reverse the wirings so that the motor directions are reversed.
 ==See Also==

Leo: /* Leveling */

2021-08-12T07:15:43Z

Leveling

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:15, 12 August 2021
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	}}		}}
	Use <code>M500</code> to save to EEPROM.		Use <code>M500</code> to save to EEPROM.

			If you reboot, you might need to re-enable bed leveling with <code>M420 S1</code>.

	==Cura Profiles==		==Cura Profiles==

Leo at 08:08, 10 August 2021

2021-08-10T08:08:09Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:08, 10 August 2021
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	\| lang = text		\| lang = text
	}}		}}
			Use <code>M500</code> to save to EEPROM.

	==Cura Profiles==		==Cura Profiles==

Leo at 18:09, 5 August 2021

2021-08-05T18:09:10Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:09, 5 August 2021
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	*retraction speed at 60mm/s at 6mm or for flexible filament at 91mm/s at 6.4mm		*retraction speed at 60mm/s at 6mm or for flexible filament at 91mm/s at 6.4mm

	=== Leveling ===		===Leveling===
	The build plate seems to sag in the middle. This can be compensated after doing an initial leveling of the 4 corners by applying a mesh leveling value in Marlin. Run the following in the serial console:		The build plate seems to sag in the middle. This can be compensated after doing an initial leveling of the 4 corners by applying a mesh leveling value in Marlin. Run the following in the serial console:
	{{Highlight		{{Highlight
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	\| lang = text		\| lang = text
	}}		}}
	Use G29 S0 to show the mesh.		Use <code>G29 S0</code> to show the mesh.
	{{Highlight		{{Highlight
	\| code = Recv: Measured points:		\| code = Recv: Measured points:
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	Recv: 3 -0.02000 -0.03000 -0.05000 -0.02000 -0.01000		Recv: 3 -0.02000 -0.03000 -0.05000 -0.02000 -0.01000
	Recv: 4 -0.02000 -0.02000 -0.04000 -0.03000 +0.00000		Recv: 4 -0.02000 -0.02000 -0.04000 -0.03000 +0.00000
			\| lang = text
			}}Enable bed leveling with <code>M420 S1</code>, then check its status with <code>M420</code>.
			{{Highlight
			\| code = Send: M420
			Recv: echo:Bed Leveling OFF
			Recv: echo:Fade Height OFF
			Recv: ok

			Send: M420 S1
			Recv: echo:Bed Leveling ON
			Recv: echo:Fade Height OFF
			Recv: X:0.00 Y:210.00 Z:42.32 E:3000.52 Count X:0 Y:16800 Z:16920
			Recv: ok
	\| lang = text		\| lang = text
	}}		}}

Leo at 17:44, 5 August 2021

2021-08-05T17:44:20Z

@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 *outer shell speed 30mm/s
 *retraction speed at 60mm/s at 6mm or for flexible filament at 91mm/s at 6.4mm
 ==Cura Profiles==

Leo: Added categories

2020-10-14T20:33:26Z

Added categories

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:33, 14 October 2020
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	*https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2901190 - Goes over mods for the Anycubic i3 Mega. Some of the slicer settings may be of interest.		*https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2901190 - Goes over mods for the Anycubic i3 Mega. Some of the slicer settings may be of interest.

			{{Navbox Tinkering}}
			[[Category:Tinkering]]
			[[Category:3D Printing]]